gould’s sugarhouse • cooperlane farm • shelburne falls • ma

alice's archives, passion projects, personal, places, travel, we are family

I think Max has Grammy’s eyes.

My children are so lucky, because their great-grandparents on both sides have created rich legacies that have touched the lives of their communities & a great many strangers. On my husband’s side, his mother Lorraine’s family have produced maple syrup in western Massachusetts for the better part of 55 years. In addition to the farm, they have also run the Sugarhouse, which makes & serves the most delicious pancakes & waffles on earth. Though Grandpa Edgar passed away ten years ago, Gramma Helen is still, at the age of 90, going strong. She was still riding a snowmobile a few years ago! She & her children, Linda, Launie, Leonard, & Larry, share the passion & expertise for sugaring that produces their amazing maple syrup year after year.

Each autumn & spring, Gould’s Sugarhouse is open & does a brisk business, with locals & tourists alike lined up & waiting to get a taste of the famous breakfasts & to shop in the gift shop. Multiple generations of families have been working for & with the Goulds over these past five decades.

When I told the server that the waffles were unlike any I’d ever had, she replied with a wink, “Well, we’ve been doing them for 50 years. I think we’ve got it figured out.”

I’m not joking when I say they’re out of-this-world good. I’ve had a LOT of waffles in my time. Breakfast food is my favorite, & I think of myself as something of a connoisseur, if there is such a self-assigned job.

We arrived in time for the last weekend the Sugarhouse was open in October 2015, & we timed our meal right at the end of brunch, so we could hang out with Grammy after we ate. We pulled up just as the first snowflakes of the season began to whirl past our windshield. My children were rapt with pleasure at the magic of seeing snow for the first time ever. We wound down the last mile toward our destination, & the red barn appeared on the side of the Mohawk Trail, surrounded by trees on fire with the colours of autumn. The entire parking lot was covered in yellow & orange maple leaves. Disney could not have created a more idyllic scene.

We emerged from the warmth of the car into the brisk fall air, my husband sporting his soft, silver beard & a perfect, picture-worthy sweater (which he never has occasion to wear in Los Angeles). He lifted our littlest one onto his shoulders & made his way toward a place he’s known since childhood & is filled with memories & loved ones.

Auntie Linda met us & as always made us feel like we were at home. She showed the kids all the fun stuff–fruit, pumpkins, corn, & of course explained how the syrup is made. We explored the gift shop with all its maple delicacies (maple cream is heavenly if you’ve never had it), handmade hats, & local products. And then finally we were seated with great anticipation to eat all the pancakes & waffles & syrup we could desire.

Never have I wished more that I could eat a superhuman amount at one meal. Grampa Edgar, we miss you. Grammy Helen, we’ll see you soon!

Gould’s Sugarhouse can be found at 570 Mohawk Trail, Shelburne Falls, MA 01370. Follow them on Facebook! this year, their last day was October 29th, but mark your calendars, because they open for the spring season on March 1, 2018!

 

 

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gong gong • a portrait of my maternal grandfather

alice's archives, personal

I made this photo during a winter holiday visit home to Taiwan while I was in college. Both my grandfathers loved having their picture taken. They were so regal & stoic, so proud & handsome in that Chinese grandfatherly kind of way. This is my mother’s father, who I knew as Gong Gong. His Chinese name, as we knew it, was Chu Hsu, but when I started researching my family genealogy & interviewed my mom’s oldest sister, I found out that Gong Gong was actually born Zhe-Chiang Hsu in September 0f 1904. When he was 15, he wanted to become a teacher, but he was two years too young to do so according to Chinese law. So, he borrowed his cousin’s birth certificate, & was permitted to study & get a teaching certificate. And from then on, he had to continue to use his cousin’s name! I wonder what name his cousin used…

I love this photo because it captures everything about my Gong Gong that I loved so much–his perfect posture (he did Tai Chi Chuan & walked every day until he passed), his wise, scholarly expression, his cane, his jacket, & how unruffled he is by the wind blowing his beard. According to Chinese tradition, a man is not to shave for one month when his wife passes away; I think it’s meant to show that you’re grieving so much, you can’t possibly care about your appearance. My grandmother died when my Gong Gong was 77; he never shaved again, & wore his beard until he died at the age of 91.

I was so lucky to have spent much of my childhood with my grandparents. Gong Gong walked me to & from school each day. He took me to the park. I don’t remember much of what we talked about, but I do remember watching him at his desk as he wrote in his journal every day. I would stand at the doorway & wonder what he was chronicling. And I watched as he exercised, swinging his arms & hands front & back as part of his Tai Chi. And everyday, he would walk & count the number of steps he took–I think his goal was 5,000 (or was it 10,000?) a day.

When my grandfather was older, he started to lose his hearing. I would sit with him while he watched TV, & we didn’t talk much, but I always felt such a sense of calm & safety near him. I have no idea what he thought of me; I was wild as a teenager, but he never seemed to judge me. I felt really happy just reading a novel near him while he watched the news, & if I saw that he had dozed off, I would just lay my book on my chest & take a nap next to him.

And on a photographic-cultural note, I was so excited to send this photograph to him, because I had hand-printed it myself in my makeshift darkroom in my apartment bathroom. “Sloppy borders” were my new obsession, so I included one on his portrait, because I thought it made it extra artsy. When I went home to visit, I noticed that he didn’t have my picture displayed in his room as I had hoped. In fact, it wasn’t anywhere in the house. When I asked my mom about it, she finally told me that in Chinese culture, black outlines only appear on stationery that announces someone’s death. So, I had unwittingly created an unlucky portrait of my grandfather–I was so mortified! I reprinted one for him without it & put it in a burgundy frame, but I don’t know that I ever undid the faux pas.

This is a scan from my original handmade silver gelatin print. I forgot how much I miss holding a print in my hand in this day & age of digital. I love the feeling of the matte Ilford paper, & I like that I can see how the color is beginning to turn where the chemicals are showing through. This print must be about 20 years old now. It’s hard to believe that I made something that long ago that I still love like the first time I saw the image floating out of the water.